What Is a Momo? A Plain Guide to Nepal's Favorite Dumpling

If you have never had a momo, here is the short version: it is a dumpling, about two bites big, with a thin wrapper and a juicy, well-seasoned filling. It comes with a small bowl of sauce called achar. You dip, you eat, and about four dumplings later you start wondering why nobody told you about this sooner.

That is the reaction we see most often at the table. So this is the longer version, for anyone who likes to know what they are ordering.

Where momo comes from

Nobody can point to the exact day a momo first landed in a Nepali kitchen, and anyone who gives you a precise date is guessing. What food historians do agree on is the route. For centuries, merchants from the Newar community of the Kathmandu Valley traded with Lhasa, in Tibet. Dumplings travelled along that road with them, and the people of the valley made the dish their own.

The Nepali change was simple and it made all the difference: more seasoning. A Tibetan momo is flavored mostly with ginger. A Nepali momo gets ginger too, plus garlic, onion, cilantro and ground spices worked into the filling. Then comes the achar, which Tibet's version never really had in the same way.

Today momo is the food Nepal eats when it is happy, tired, celebrating, or just hungry at four in the afternoon. It is sold from street carts and in the nicest dining rooms in Kathmandu, and a plate is usually eight to twelve pieces.

The four ways we cook them

The filling and the wrapper stay the same. The cooking changes everything.

• Steamed momo. The classic. Soft wrapper, all the juice held inside. If it is your first time, start here, because this is the version every other one is judged against.
• Fried momo. The same dumpling, fried until the wrapper is golden and crisp. Great with a cold drink.
• Kothe momo. Pan-fried on one side, then steamed. You get a crisp, browned bottom and a tender top in the same bite. People who order kothe once tend to keep ordering it.
• Chilli momo. Momo tossed in a hot, tangy chili sauce with onion and peppers. In Nepal this is often called C-momo. It is the loud one of the family.

In Nepal you will also find jhol momo, where the dumplings sit in a thin, sour, spiced broth. Different kitchens, different habits, same dumpling underneath.

If you cannot decide, our Himalayan Momo Platter puts steamed, fried, kothe and chilli on one plate. It was made for exactly this problem.

The sauce matters as much as the dumpling

Ask anyone from Nepal about their favorite momo shop and within a minute they will be talking about the achar, not the momo. It is a tomato-based sauce, usually with garlic, chili and cilantro, often with roasted sesame for body. Many cooks add timur, a Himalayan pepper related to Sichuan pepper, which leaves a faint citrus tingle on the tongue.

A good achar should be bright and a little sharp. It is there to wake the dumpling up, not to bury it.

How to eat a momo

There are no rules, but there is a method that saves your shirt:

1. Let the plate sit for a minute. Steamed momo hold very hot juice.
2. Pick one up with a fork or your fingers. Either is normal.
3. Dip it lightly, or spoon a little achar on top.
4. Eat it in one or two bites, and take the first bite over the plate.

Frequently asked questions

Is a momo the same as a potsticker or a gyoza?

They are cousins. All three are filled dumplings with a wheat wrapper. The difference is the seasoning and the sauce. A momo filling is spiced the Nepali way, and it is served with tomato achar instead of soy and vinegar.

Are momos spicy?

The dumpling itself is mild and savory. The heat lives in the achar, so you control it with every dip. Chilli momo is the exception. That one is meant to be hot.

Can I get vegetarian momo?

Yes. Vegetable momo is a standard order in Nepal, not a substitute. Check the menu for today's fillings, and tell us about any allergies when you order.

How many should I order?

One plate is a generous starter for two people, or a full meal for one hungry person. Most tables end up ordering a second plate.

We fold and cook momo at 115 Wonder World Drive in San Marcos, Monday to Saturday. You can order online for pickup or come in and eat them the right way, which is hot, at the table, about a minute after they leave the steamer.